After wrapping up my final day in Cairo with a visit to my favorite part of the city, I made spent my last evening at one of my favorite parts of Egyptian culture: the ahwa (cafe). I went to a few ahwas in the Downtown area and ordered my favorite drinks - ahwa mazboot (Turkish coffee with sugar) and sahlab. The latter is my favorite drink that Egypt has to offer. It is a warm dessert drink consisting of nuts, bananas, milk, sugar, and some sort of seeds. Both beverages originated in Turkey but have made their way into Egyptian culture as coffeehouse staples.
An ahwa by Midan Falaki, Downtown.
I stayed out late at the ahwa and then returned to my apartment to pack up all my belongings. By 5am I was ready to leave, and said goodbye to my apartment.
Around my neighborhood of al-Mesaha, in Doqqi.
From my street and apartment - Amer Street in Doqqi.
I hauled all my stuff and conveniently hailed a cab at the end of my street. I figured my last encounter in Cairo would not be without some unique surprise, and I was correct. My taxi driver had some very severe attention-deficit and twitching issues. Literally every few seconds he would flip on the lights, change the radio, open or close the windows, change lanes, and move about the cab as if he had bugs all over him. Meanwhile, we travelled at high speed down the 6th October Bridge, because 5am on the day of prayer is one of the few times you won't encounter traffic in Cairo.
My flight to London was at 8:30am. Everything went smoothly at the airport, and by the end of the day I touched down in Boston and was on my way home.
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
Thursday, June 4, 2009
Islamic Cairo: Khan al-Khalili
For my last full day in Cairo, I returned to my favorite part of Cairo, the section known as Islamic Cairo. Interestingly, the Egyptian government refuses to refer to it as such, but instead calls it Fatimid Cairo. Perhaps this might be an attempt to increase tourism from the Western part of the world.
Khan al-Khalili was my destination in Islamic Cairo. Khan is a marketplace (known as sooq in Arabic) that has existed within the confines of stone walls since the late Medieval period. It is a major tourist attraction, though I have heard opinions that say it is overly touristy. In my opinion, this is not the case. I thoroughly enjoyed the visit. While some shops certainly cater towards tourists exclusively, there are so many unique and authentic items that can be purchased here.
Gates to Khan al-Khalili.
The market consists of hundreds of shops, each divided into smaller districts based on their wares. There are sections devoted entirely to clothing, spices, gold and silver, antiques, metalware, and even minaret tops. If you venture outside the main area (as I generally tend to do) there are districts selling more obscure goods like tires, rubber products, kitchenware, shoe repair services, and cloth.
Inside Khan al-Khalili.
At one point I somehow ventured out of the marketplace but within the sooq walls, and I came upon a residential area populated by Coptic Christians. It was easy to tell since all of the shops and apartments here had religious icons hanging on the walls, and the women were not veiled. Despite these differences, the Coptic enclave did not really seem out of place in Islamic Cairo.
Gateway to a Coptic enclave.
Generally speaking, the prices are not fixed, except in the gold and silver shops. This means that to get a good price, you will have to bargain. There are some shopowners who will haggle you to look at their products, but generally speaking Khan makes for a unique and fun shopping experience. I was able to get a few things for my family. I also bought a ibriki, which a device for making Turkish coffee, so I can enjoy one of my favorite parts of Egypt back at home in the US.
Not far from Khan al-Khalili is al-Azhar, which is considered one of the oldest universities in the world, if not the oldest.
al-Azhar.
al-Azhar Park.
Along the edge of Khan al-Khalili is al-Hussein Mosque, which is considered one of the holiest sites of Islam in Egypt. It was in front of this mosque that a French girl was killed in a blast only a couple months earlier. The security around the major sections of Khan and al-Hussein was stepped up. The major thing I watched out for were the motorcycles that passed along the narrow roads, since the February bombing was said to have come from a motorcycle.
Khan al-Khalili was my destination in Islamic Cairo. Khan is a marketplace (known as sooq in Arabic) that has existed within the confines of stone walls since the late Medieval period. It is a major tourist attraction, though I have heard opinions that say it is overly touristy. In my opinion, this is not the case. I thoroughly enjoyed the visit. While some shops certainly cater towards tourists exclusively, there are so many unique and authentic items that can be purchased here.
Gates to Khan al-Khalili.
The market consists of hundreds of shops, each divided into smaller districts based on their wares. There are sections devoted entirely to clothing, spices, gold and silver, antiques, metalware, and even minaret tops. If you venture outside the main area (as I generally tend to do) there are districts selling more obscure goods like tires, rubber products, kitchenware, shoe repair services, and cloth.
Inside Khan al-Khalili.
At one point I somehow ventured out of the marketplace but within the sooq walls, and I came upon a residential area populated by Coptic Christians. It was easy to tell since all of the shops and apartments here had religious icons hanging on the walls, and the women were not veiled. Despite these differences, the Coptic enclave did not really seem out of place in Islamic Cairo.
Gateway to a Coptic enclave.
Generally speaking, the prices are not fixed, except in the gold and silver shops. This means that to get a good price, you will have to bargain. There are some shopowners who will haggle you to look at their products, but generally speaking Khan makes for a unique and fun shopping experience. I was able to get a few things for my family. I also bought a ibriki, which a device for making Turkish coffee, so I can enjoy one of my favorite parts of Egypt back at home in the US.
Not far from Khan al-Khalili is al-Azhar, which is considered one of the oldest universities in the world, if not the oldest.
al-Azhar.
al-Azhar Park.
Along the edge of Khan al-Khalili is al-Hussein Mosque, which is considered one of the holiest sites of Islam in Egypt. It was in front of this mosque that a French girl was killed in a blast only a couple months earlier. The security around the major sections of Khan and al-Hussein was stepped up. The major thing I watched out for were the motorcycles that passed along the narrow roads, since the February bombing was said to have come from a motorcycle.
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
Various pictures from around Cairo
Here are various pictures from my last week in Cairo. There are no interesting stories to go along with them, but they do give a sense of what Cairo is like.
Traffic jam in Midan Tahrir, Downtown.
The 6th October bridge stretches from Heliopolis to Mohandeseen, crossing above the Abbasiya, Downtown, Zamalek, and Agouza districts.
Views from 6th October Bridge.
Opera Square was the former site of the Cairo Opera House, which burned down many years ago. The square is distinguished by the large statue of Viceroy Ibrahim Pasha. The new opera house is located on Gezira island. Opera Square is located in a district called Ataba, east of Downtown. Ataba is a very busy section of Cairo, with many businesses and industries located within, though relatively few foreigners live there.
Midan Opera.
More pictures from Ataba.
A compound of cemeteries and Coptic Churches by Nasr City.
Traffic jam in Midan Tahrir, Downtown.
The 6th October bridge stretches from Heliopolis to Mohandeseen, crossing above the Abbasiya, Downtown, Zamalek, and Agouza districts.
Views from 6th October Bridge.
Opera Square was the former site of the Cairo Opera House, which burned down many years ago. The square is distinguished by the large statue of Viceroy Ibrahim Pasha. The new opera house is located on Gezira island. Opera Square is located in a district called Ataba, east of Downtown. Ataba is a very busy section of Cairo, with many businesses and industries located within, though relatively few foreigners live there.
Midan Opera.
More pictures from Ataba.
A compound of cemeteries and Coptic Churches by Nasr City.
Labels:
6 october bridge,
abbasiya,
ataba,
cairo,
coptic,
downtown,
midan opera,
nasr city,
tahrir
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Last day at AUC
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