Coptic / Old Cairo

I made a short visit to Coptic Cairo today, which is actually the oldest part of Cairo, dating back to the sixth century A.D. This part of Cairo is home to several important Christian sites. Coptic Christianity, which makes up about ten percent of Egypt's population, began when the Apostle Mark brought Christianity to Egypt; it bears many resemblances to Greek Orthodox.

Coptic Cairo is located a bit south of Downtown, on the eastern bank of the Nile, but further west than Islamic Cairo. I took the subway to the Mar Girgis (St. George) stop, which arrives conveniently in the middle of Coptic Cairo. After I left the subway station, there was a security checkpoint where everyone was searched and asked for ID. I suppose it only applied to Egyptians, as the police officer let me through without a search. I've come to the conclusion that Cairene police officers treat Americans with great respect.

From what I could tell, the center of the community, including the major religious sites, are within a walled compound. The compound isn't very large, so I was able to walk around the entire perimeter. I noticed the Convent of St. George, St. George's Church, Ben Ezra Synagogue (the oldest in Egypt), and the Church of St. Barbara. The Citadel in Islamic Cairo is easily visible from this area. Afterward, I entered the gates and tried to find my way around. Most of the buildings inside the walls were residential flats. I could tell Muslims lived there too because I noticed several medium-sized mosques in the vicinity.

A barren lot in Coptic Cairo. Notice the Citadel in the background.


One of the walls to the Coptic Cairo compound



I found my way to the Hanging Church, which is the middle of a cramped neighborhood. The church was constructed in the 6th century and was renovated in the medieval period. The interior is packed with religious icons and decorations, and the architecture is rather impressive. The church is actually quite small, with a capacity of perhaps one hundred people. There were a few tourists inside who were also visiting.


The exterior of the Hanging Church. When I left there were parishioners gathering for something.



Interior of the Hanging Church.



Shrouds of Mar Girgis (St. George) and Mary near the altar.



Some of the icons on display. I'm not quite sure who they represent.


Pulpit from the 11th century with 13 columns for symbolic reasons.


This was from the original 6th century section.



Afterward I decided to go to the Coptic Museum, which is also within the compound. Unlike the Egyptian Museum, this museum was actually organized and its design was quite pleasing. I wasn't permitted to bring my camera inside. On display were Roman columns and statues, Coptic textiles, liturgical clothes, Coptic icons, pottery, jewelry, and some other artifacts. A lot of the exhibits came from St. Jerome's monastery in Saqqara. My favorite exhibit was the collection of Bibles and missals from the medieval period and earlier, written in Coptic, Arabic, and Greek. I could read and understand some of the Gospels written in Arabic, but not much.

All that is left of the Roman fortress of Babylon.


Exterior of the Coptic Museum.



I may go back again to visit St. George's Church and some other things. The best part is that it's literally right off the subway station, so there is no hassle getting there.