Turkey: Kars, Ani

Spring Break Day Ten (continued from part nine)

The hotel served a good breakfast, though unusual by American standards: eggs, olives, bread, tea, honey, molasses, and some sort of sweet fudge-like squares.

Celil met us at 9am and drove us the 45km to Ani, the medieval capital of the Armenian Kingdom. When we arrived at Ani, we were given specific instructions: we were not to go on the citadel, near the bridge or the stream, or down into any valleys. I didn't ask what would happen, but I imagine arrest and deportation would be options. It doesn't make sense to me that Turkey controls the former Armenian capital, especially since it's situated right on the Armenian border, but raising political questions like that didn't seem like a good idea either.

Just outside the Ani site.





As you can tell from the pictures, the Ani site is spread out across a wide expanse. Most of the buildings that remained were churches from around the year 900 to 1100. There was also a palace, a fortress (prohibited), some houses, some shops, and a wine press located on the site.

The site takes a couple hours to walk around and fully appreciate. There were only a handful of tourists there, and the village around Ani only has a few people living in it. As a result, the whole site is quiet and peaceful.

Various pictures from the ruined city of Ani.










You can get very close to the Turkish-Armenian border at the site, close enough to throw a rock across the stream that separates the two countries. Some of the staff walked around to let people know which areas were off-limits. We noticed three soldiers who were making patrols, one carrying a teapot, no less.

The stream separating the two countries.



Soldiers passing by, one carrying a teapot.



After returning to Kars, I wandered around the city a bit, venturing up to the citadel and near some of the ancient hammams which reside in the city. I had dinner at a restaurant on Ataturk Cad, though I don't remember the name. The staff didn't know any English, but it was obvious they were excited to have a foreigner eat there. I couldn't understand anything on the menu, so I picked something at random, and it turned out to be a plate with meats prepared in various ways. The food was great, and they treated me like a VIP.

That night I wandered around the city a bit more, visiting a couple Internet cafes. Although only half the size of Van, there was something about Kars that made it more interesting. The only tourists I saw in the city were the ones I had already met, including a British guy who was on a motorcycle trip from Greece to India.

Ataturk Cad in Kars at night. I don't know the reason for the lights.


Outside my hotel in Kars.